If you have wavy, curly, or coily hair and want to embrace your natural texture, you’ve probably heard about the Curly Girl Method (CGM). Created by Lorraine Massey, this method has helped countless people rediscover their curls by eliminating harsh ingredients and focusing on hydration. But is it the best approach for everyone? And can it truly repair years of heat or chemical damage?

In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about the Curly Girl Method, from its basic rules to alternative approaches that may work better for your hair type.

What is the Curly Girl method?

The Curly Girl Method is a set of guidelines designed to enhance and maintain the natural wave or curl pattern of your hair. It eliminates ingredients like sulfates, silicones, and drying alcohols, which can cause dryness, frizz, and buildup. The method also discourages the use of heat styling and excessive brushing to prevent curl disruption.

This approach is particularly beneficial for hair that has been damaged by heat, chemicals, or coloring, as it helps restore moisture levels and encourages curl formation. However, as we’ll discuss later, the CGM doesn’t work for everyone in the long term.

The Do’s and Don’ts of the Curly Girl Method

What to Avoid

• No sulfates – These harsh detergents strip the hair of natural oils, leading to dryness and frizz.
• No silicones – Found in many conditioners and styling products, silicones create a coating on the hair that can prevent moisture from penetrating.
• No drying alcohols – Some alcohols, like isopropyl alcohol, can dry out the hair and cause frizz.
• No heat styling – Curling irons, flat irons, and even excessive blow-drying can damage the hair shaft.
• No brushing – Brushing disrupts the natural curl pattern and can cause breakage.
• No traditional towels – Instead, use a microfiber towel or a cotton T-shirt to dry your hair and reduce frizz.

What to Do

• Use sulfate-free cleansers – Co-washing (washing with conditioner) or using a mild, sulfate-free shampoo helps maintain moisture balance.
• Use water-soluble products – Products without silicones and waxes prevent buildup and allow better hydration.
• Deep condition regularly – Hydrating masks help maintain moisture levels and improve curl definition.
• Scrunch your products in – Instead of brushing, apply styling products using the scrunching method to enhance curls.
• Protect your hair at night – Use a satin or silk pillowcase to prevent frizz and breakage.

Curly Girl Method Steps

Following the Curly Girl Method involves several key steps that help maximize curl definition and maintain hair health:

1. Curly Girl Method: Clarify (Only Once Before Starting CGM)

To begin with, you should wash your hair with a so-called deep cleansing shampoo , which can also be a clarifying shampoo. It contains surfactants that thoroughly remove the deposits that accumulate in the hair over time (e.g. grease, care product residues, dandruff and environmental factors such as dust). This step will make your hair so “pure” that it will be more receptive to the new hair care method.

You should repeat the shampooing with Clarifying Shampoo every few weeks, especially if your curls have been exposed to harmful influences such as chlorinated water.

2. Switch to a Sulfate-Free Cleanser (Low-Poo or Co-Wash)

Choose between a low-poo (mild sulfate-free shampoo) or a co-wash (conditioner-only washing) based on your hair type. Co-washing is ideal for very dry, coarse curls, while a low-poo cleanser works better for fine or wavy hair prone to buildup.

3. Condition and Detangle

1. Use a silicone-free conditioner to hydrate your hair.
2. Detangle gently with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is in.
3. Rinse thoroughly but leave a little conditioner in for added moisture.

The conditioner is an important component in your care routine, with which you can moisturize your hair and also proteins. My tip: Rinse your hair with as cold water as possible after working in the conditioner. This will give your hair extra shine.

You can read more helpful tips about Curly Girl Method Conditioner here.

4. Nourishing Curls with Leave-in Conditioner, Curl Cream & co.

This step is different for many curly girls, because here you have to test what your hair likes or what it really needs, especially in the beginning. Leave in conditioners make your hair super smooth and you can comb it better. They are thus very well supplied with moisture. Be sure to check that there are no silicones, sulfates or drying alcohols. I only comb my hair (with a Denman Brush, for example) after I’ve incorporated Leave in Conditioner. The Curl Cream ensures that your curl structure is activated. So they are two complementary products, but they can quickly become too much in your hair. My tip: In order for the products to be absorbed very well into your hair, wet plopping is an absolute game changer. This reduces frizz.

I can recommend these products to you:

5. Apply Styling Products on Wet Hair

Use a leave-in conditioner, curl cream, or gel to define curls. Scrunch products into the hair instead of brushing them through.

I recommend this gel to you:

6. Air Dry of Use a Diffuser

Instead of rubbing with a traditional towel, gently scrunch out excess water with a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt to minimize frizz.
Let your hair air dry or use a diffuser on a low-heat setting to speed up drying without damaging curls.
If your styling products leave a gel cast, once your hair is completely dry, scrunch out the stiffness for soft, defined curls.

My recommendation for starting your journey

Curly Girl Method Products

I know the desire for beautiful curls all too well – after all, I myself once started with the Curly Girl Method. And you know what I was missing? Someone to take me by the hand and tell me what “initial equipment” I really need. Little by little I then used Curly Girl Method products which were really useful and “game changers”. So that you already know what is really useful, I have written down my product recommendations for curly heads in the following post.

Oh, by the way – whether you call this healthy form of hair care the Curly Girl Method or the Curly Hair Method: It’s important to me that you learn to understand your curls – your Curly Hair – the way I do. It just makes you happy and satisfied when the hair no longer looks straw-like, but falls soft and well-groomed. And by the way, it’s just terrific to see how the curls really curl.

FAQ about the Curly Girl Method

Here I answer the most frequently asked questions about the Curly Girl Method.

What is the Curly Girl method?

The Curly Girl method is a hair care method that gently cares for your natural curls and activates the curl structure through the appropriate ingredients in the care products.

What are the steps of the Curly Girl Method?

The steps of the original Curly Girl Method are:

1. Final Wash (with a deep cleansing shampoo).
2. Co-Wash (with a conditioner)
3. Styling (with gel)
4. Air dry

However, you should adapt these to the needs of your hair. This means that I definitely recommend you take the necessary care such as hair conditioner, leave-in conditioner and curl cream to provide your curls with the important care they need. Don’t be afraid to deviate from the original Curly Girl Method photm if this is the right way for your hair.

What products are suitable for the Curly Girl method?

The products that are suitable for the Curly Girl method are those that do not contain dehydrating alcohols, water-insoluble silicones and harmful sulfates. Above you will find an overview of the most popular products, in my individual posts about shampoo, conditioner, curl cream, leave-in conditioner and hair gel as well as curling mousse you will find many more Curly Girl Method products.

How long does the Curly Girl method take?

As you change your hair care, you apply the Curly Hair Method indefinitely. However, the changeover phase may take some time. The hair will have to get used to the new hair care and you will get to know and understand what your curls need and how they react to certain products. All of this can take a few weeks. Please do not despair at this stage. The changeover is quite normal.

Why doesn’t the Curly Girl method work?

There are many different reasons why the method does not work for you. Because there are many very different reasons, I’ve written it all down for you in my post about Curly Girl Method mistakes – with tips on how to fix them. My tip: Many curlies with curly hair complain of frizz – this is because there is too little moisture in the hair.

Is the Curly Girl method harmful?

No, the Curly Girl Method is not harmful, because you avoid the ingredients that are rather harmful for curls. In addition, this method will help you become much more familiar with your hair care ingredients and learn how your hair and scalp react to certain products. Since you also avoid heat with the method, it’s very gentle on curly hair.

How should I start with the Curly Girl Method?

I recommend you analyze your hair first so you know what to look for in hair care. For this I can recommend my hair care test, with which you can quickly assess your curls yourself. After that, you should choose the products that suit your hair. For starters, the most common are conditioner, leave-in conditioner, curl cream as well as hair gel. A hair mask is also a useful purchase to provide your hair with all the necessary nutrients. By the way, with my 30 Day Curl Challenge I show you all the requirements, how to also analyze your existing products and see if the ingredients are suitable.

What does Co Washing mean?

Co Wash is the abbreviation for Conditioner Washing. This means that you clean your curls exclusively with conditioner and not with shampoo. This method was developed so that already dry curls are not additionally dried out by the use of a shampoo. By the way, there are also co wash conditioners that contain some mild cleansing ingredients. But be careful: co-washing is not recommended for everyone, because you need to manually loosen the dirt that accumulates from your scalp by massaging it sufficiently, otherwise it can cause scalp irritation.