Hair porosity is a crucial aspect of hair health, influencing how well your hair can absorb and retain moisture. This characteristic plays a significant role in determining the most effective hair care routine for your unique hair type. What do porosity, hair and proper curl care have to do with each other? Here I explain why and how you should determine the porosity.

What ist Hair Porosity?

Hair porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture. This characteristic is primarily determined by the condition of the hair’s cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft. Factors like genetics, as well as external influences such as heat styling and chemical treatments, can affect hair porosity.

The hair consists of the medulla, the cortex and the cuticle. The fibrous layer and the cuticle layer are made of keratin, which are fibrous proteins. Thick hair is made up of more proteins than fine hair (another thing to keep in mind!).

When we talk about porosity of hair, it means how the cuticle is arranged to the hair marrow, that is, how much the hair marrow is protected and healthy.

It’s important to know your hair porosity, because that’s how you know how your hair absorbs and holds moisture. This is crucial for your choice of products. (By the way, here you can find my tutorial on the Curly Girl Method).

Types of Hair Porosity

There are three main categories of hair porosity:

1. Low Porosity Hair: This type has tightly bound cuticle layers, making it challenging for moisture to penetrate or escape. Such hair often takes longer to dry, is resistant to chemical treatments, and is prone to product buildup.
2. Medium Porosity Hair: This hair type allows a moderate flow of moisture in and out. It typically balances moisture retention well and is less prone to damage from styling and environmental factors.
3. High Porosity Hair: Characterized by gaps in the cuticle layer, this hair type easily absorbs and loses moisture. It often dries quickly, is prone to frizz, and can feel dry due to its difficulty in retaining moisture.

How to Determine Your Hair Porosity

Understanding your hair porosity can guide you in choosing the right products and care techniques. Here are some simple tests to help determine your hair’s porosity:

The Float Test

Place clean hair strands in a glass of water. If they float, you likely have low porosity hair; if they sink, your hair is likely high porosity.

The Strand Test

Slide your fingers up a hair strand towards the scalp. If you feel bumps, you may have high porosity hair. If the strand is smooth, it suggests low porosity.

The Spray Bottle Test

Mist a section of hair with water. If the water beads up, the hair is low porosity. If it absorbs quickly, the hair is high porosity.

Tailoring Your Hair Care Routine

For Low Porosity Hair

Low porosity hair requires specific care to ensure proper moisture penetration:

• Use light products to avoid buildup.
• Opt for heat treatments to open up the cuticles.
• Choose products with humectants to attract moisture.

The following products may be suitable for your hair.

For Medium Porosity Hair

Medium porosity hair is relatively easy to manage, but it still benefits from balanced care:

• Use a gentle cleanser to maintain moisture.
• Deep condition periodically, especially if you frequently style or color your hair.
• Protect your hair from excessive heat and environmental damage.

For High Porosity Hair

High porosity hair needs extra nourishment and moisture:

• Use rich, moisturizing products with added proteins.
• Apply anti-humectants to seal the cuticles in humid conditions.
• Rinse with lukewarm or cool water to encourage cuticle closure.

If your hair shows high porosity, you need care products with proteins. Because they form a protective layer on the hair and smooth the cuticle. These include, but are not limited to, the following ingredients:

• Amino acid (amino acids)
• Elastin (elastin)
• Oat protein (oat extract)
• Keratin (keratin)
• Collagen (collagen)
• Milk protein (milk)
• Rice protein (rice protein)
• Silk protein (silk protein)
• Soy protein (soy protein)
• Wheat protein (wheat protein)

The Hair Porosity can change!

Did you know that the porosity of your hair can change with your care? This result is easily achievable and I can tell you from experience of many many curly heads that most of the time with high porosity hair you will think about healthier curl care. However, it may be that individual strands of hair, mostly in the lower hair, are normal porous.

Conclusion

Understanding your hair’s porosity is the key to optimal hair care. Remember, every hair type is unique, and embracing your natural hair’s characteristics is essential for healthy, vibrant hair.